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Tanks
See that really huge tank over there? Well, get it. When it comes to fish, the bigger
is better. Really, this is not a way to con you out of raiding your wallet. You will soon learn how big golfish can actually
grow, if given the room. Also, if you over populate your tank, you are more in danger of getting a disease and stressing the
fish. Trust me, I have learned on experience.
I know, naturally we think "well I will start small and then move into a bigger tank."
Well, would you put your dog or cat in a shoe box? Treat them properly. Love them.
Walking down the isle you see many different tanks and you are trying to figure out which
one you should purchase. You see the price, and you are leaning towards using a bowl.
We want to keep our fish out of danger, and healthy right? Well
in a bowl you are stressing the fish. It's like putting your cat or dog in a shoe box!
Remember while you are browsing those isles for tanks that the fish
not only swims in it and eats in it but that bowl or tank is also the fish's bathroom. Who is going to flush that toilet for
the fish? Just imagine all that stuff in a bowl, ewww. Water becomes more toxic then in a bowl instead of a tank. A tank has
more quanity of water, thereof, the fish poop is more deluted per se. The build of fish waste products causes ammonia, which
can be lethal. Between overfeeding and fish waste, your fish bowl will become like a nuclear war zone with high levels of
toxic waste.
In picking out your tank, there is a general rule of thumb.
First, find out before purchasing the fish if they will be warmwater or coldwater fish. For warmwater fish it is 1-inch of
fish per 1 gallon of water. Needless to say, 10-one inch fish for a 10gallon tank. For coldwater fish it is 1/2-inch per 1
gallon of water. That's right, 5-one inch goldfish for a 10gallon tank. Also, goldfish always has more body waste per gram
of body weight than other fish.
Need to measure that fish you want or have? Measure him or her
from nose to the base of tail. You don't really have to use a ruler or measuring stick; you can estimate with your eye or
compare to the length of a finger. Also, if the fish are young, more than likely within the first year it will at least
double in size. Some fish even quadruple! So when you are looking at those tanks, remember to keep the fish sizes in mind
along with the general rule of thumb for how many fish to a tank.
You bought a 10gallon tank and 5 goldfish? Watch them closely, within 6 months to a year
you will notice how overcrowded they are. What a bummer, you have to go buy a bigger tank or another 10gallon and seperate
the tank. Let's think now, hey what about purchasing a 20gallon tank? In one year, the size will still be ok. Now if you purchase
a 30gallon tank, you will have additional roomand you can add more fish over a period of time.
Another thoughtful idea, we know the goldfish require higher levels of oxygen tan many
other fish. Well, oxygen saturation takes place at the surface level of the tank. Which means the larger the surface area
is, the more oxygen is produced for the fish. So why not a low tank that is long with 20 or 30 gallons in it? Hey, that sounds
good. Afterall, we wouldn't go scuba diving without our o2 tanks on our backs now would we?
Filters
I don't need a filter, I have kept many fish in bowls and we never had a problem.Think
again. You just don't remember any problems.
There is a wide variety of filters you can choose, and some are really expensive. I will
cover biological and mechanical filteration. They both help improve your water quality and the fish less stressed.
Mechanical Filtration. Filters out waste products and excessive debris (carbon and foam)
and cleans the water then puts it back in the tank. Normally, mechanical filters hang on the back of the tank. It also has
a intake tube which just hangs in thetank sucking water through it. It's main function is to keep water clean and provides
a certain amount of biological filtration.
Biological Filtration. Most used as an undergravel filter. Looks like a plastic grooved
plate which sits at the bottom of the tank and is covered with 1/2 to 2 inches of gravel. It will do a partial vacuum of the
gravel by pulling water through the gravel, thereof, oxygenating the gravel. It will create bacteria, good bacteria, which
breaks down the waste and makes it less dangerous for our little friends. It is apart of a nitrogen cycle.
Many fish specialists and breeders recommend to use boththe mechanical and biological
filteratio. Using both along with other routine maintenance will increase the aquarium's capacity.
Can't afford it? Start off with the undergravel (Biological
Filtration) since it is easier to install at first. You can always save up for the Mechanical filter and add it later when
you can afford it.
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Gravel
Gravel is a pretty decore for the tank and to help stablize the filter you have. Now
when purchasing the gravel, remember a few things.
The bigger gravel, the better. Many fish are also groundfeeders, which means they also
eat the food that has fallen. Your fish can choke on gravel, believe it or not.
Just use the role of thumb with an infant child, never give
them anything smaller than your elbow. In a fish case, never give them anything smaller than their mouth.
Choking can happen amongst the fish! I am speaking from experience
here. I have had to actually provide the hymlic remover (however, you spell it) to one of my comets. I have also, call me
crazy, but took the fish to the vet when he swallowed a dead fish and choked since I couldn't get it out of him. You will
do the darnest things for kids, and craziest I must say. I had a balling 9 year old thinking Steve (the comet goldfish) would
die, and he kept begging me to do something. So yes, I actually took a goldfish to the vet. And believe it or not, as if that
isn't bad enough, the vet actually operated on the fish and removed the dead fish to save Steve's life. Steve lived that occassion,
however, he and his twin, Clem died recently along with Brutus to bad water while I was out of town and the entrusted
family didn't change the water. Talk about a heart breaker for the kids. I held all 3 kids (9, 5,4) for hours. Finally perked
them up by actually burrying the fish outside and making them crosses. Just like a real grave. And I told them they could
put flowers anytime on the grave they wanted.
Also, it is better to use natural gravel over the coloured gravel. Please don't
just go outside and just grab gravel, purchase a bag at the pet store. Gravel needs a special cleaning to go in the tank for
fish to do away with most minerals, bacteria, chemicals and so on.
Please keep the gravel size in mind whilst you are purchasing it, for the sake of your
children. Losing an animal (even a fish) is really hard on kids. I know from experience, as I have stated the unfortunate
circumstances above.
Additional Equipment
Lighting and hoods. Fluorescent hoods are best for the tank. Incandescent bulbs isn't
the best heat source for goldfish. The hood helps reduce evaporation and it keeps your fish in the aquarium. Honestly, many
goldfish tend to jump off the tank and commit suicide. From experience, dried up goldfish is a horrid sight and a nasty cleanup.
Thermometer. It is best to also have a thermometer on the outside of your tank. You can
keep track of the temperature this way, and take action if the temperature is either too low or too high.
Goldfish do pretty good at room temperature. However, I still
highly recommend to get a thermometer. I have had a couple occassions where the light from the tank has made the temperature
too high and other times when I keep the light off it drops too low. Also, when you do water changes the temperature will
change. Goldfish do best in 69-75 degrees. Its better around 70 though. This was a Ferenieght (sorry, I can't spell) measurement.
Test kits
You definately need ph and ammonia kits. They are inexpensive, if you can find them.
They will come in handy during tank set-ups as well as when something is wrong with your fish and the quality of your water
will help diagnose what is wrong.
Aquarium water may have:
Certain disinfectants like chloramines and/or chlorine
Chemicals which cause pH to be acidic, basic, neutral
Dissolved carbonates and bicarbonates which stabilize pH
Organic material
Dissolved nitrate
Parasites or bacteria which is harmful and can be leathal
As you can see, many things on the quality of the water may harm or kill your fish. So
its handy to have those tests ready. I found a very inexpensive test which covers 5 tests in one at Petco. It covers Nitrate,
Nitrite, Hardness, Alkalinity, pH. So all you would have to do is purchase the chloramine and chlorine and ammonia tests.
Try to find a multi-test kit that is inexpensive like I did. I think I only had to pay approx. $5 for a bottle of test strips
for those 5 tests I mentioned.
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